Wall outlets, who makes the best?

If not the best , at LEAST one of the best , but EXPENSIVE , like all good things in life.

PS: For those who still wonder if the ground should be UP or DOWN the writing on the receptacle say's it all , it is easier to read the information when the ground is UP.:)

REVIEW : http://magazine-hifi.info/furutech-gtx/


Furutech GTX-D - receptacle - cover - wall pate -
Furutech GTX_Harmony_.jpg - - - Furutech GTX Duo = $345.00.jpg - - - Furutech Trio = $505.00.jpg - - -
 
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Hi guys i have been using these receptacles since 1984 Hubbell     HBL-8200HR.JPG they are almost 30 years old and the grip is just as good as it was 29 years ago back then they where #1 for audio tweakers like myself the cost was $113.10 for a box of 10 i can't remember how many i installed but there where many this trend started in 1983 - 1984 - yes i know that today you can get much better receptacles but for me to install two Furutech GTX-D would be an expense of about $1,000.00 and for my system i doubt that the difference would be major BETTER maybe but not MAJOR, so i will keep my Hubbell HBL-8200HR
 
Serious ? Listen guys, I love that you take this hobby seriously ..and I am sure there is some value in the Furman outlets and such...but if you really want AUDIOPHILE quality, then please follow this important guidance:

Make all checks payable to:

Robert Arco
I promise you that you well get a true audiophile quality guy who will post whatever you want...LOL..The value is priceless !:exciting:

What I want to know Rob, is where do I insert the plug? :fingers:
 
I've tried a couple from PS Audio and while I don't think there was any difference in sound quality, they did have a vise-like grip. It was almost too hard trying to connect up gear.
 
Hi guys i have been using these receptacles since 1984 View attachment 1504 they are almost 30 years old and the grip is just as good as it was 29 years ago back then they where #1 for audio tweakers like myself the cost was $113.10 for a box of 10 i can't remember how many i installed but there where many this trend started in 1983 - 1984 - yes i know that today you can get much better receptacles but for me to install two Furutech GTX-D would be an expense of about $1,000.00 and for my system i doubt that the difference would be major BETTER maybe but not MAJOR, so i will keep my Hubbell HBL-8200HR
That's the kind of thinking I was onto. Run 2 dedicated lines, I'd use 2 -
20 amp breakers. Run 10/2 wire , and use similar grounded heavy duty outlets.
Then run 2 separate power conditioners, one for amps and one for sources.
And I was thinking something inexpensive like the 4 outlet Richard Gray power company boxes I could find used for a few hundred each. I definitely need to do something especially now I put the a/c s in the windows.
 
Hi guys i have been using these receptacles since 1984 View attachment 1504 they are almost 30 years old and the grip is just as good as it was 29 years ago back then they where #1 for audio tweakers like myself the cost was $113.10 for a box of 10 i can't remember how many i installed but there where many this trend started in 1983 - 1984 - yes i know that today you can get much better receptacles but for me to install two Furutech GTX-D would be an expense of about $1,000.00 and for my system i doubt that the difference would be major BETTER maybe but not MAJOR, so i will keep my Hubbell HBL-8200HR

You wouldn't have to spend that much to upgrad if you choose to.
In fact there are a few places has the Furutech FP-15A (gold) on sale right now for $69, its no GTX but still really nice for the money.
Its 15 amp but a really nice receptacle compared to stock or even a hospital grade.

FP-15A(G)-N1_20B1.jpg
 
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You wouldn't have to spend that much to upgrad if you choose to.
In fact there are a few places has the Furutech FP-15A (gold) on sale right now for $69, its no GTX but still really nice for the money.
Its 15 amp but a really nice receptacle compared to stock or even a hospital grade.

FP-15A(G)-N1_20B1.jpg

Sorry but the Furutech FP-15A receptacles would not be an upgrade to the Hubbells that i already have as for the GTX-D now that's a different story & also a much different price.
 
Sorry but the Furutech FP-15A receptacles would not be an upgrade to the Hubbells that i already have as for the GTX-D now that's a different story & also a much different price.

So one would have to move up to the GTX to upgrade from 30 year old Hubbells?
LOL, OK....fair enough.

I used to give 1 of the Hubbells (just like yours), away with each power cable I sold (prolly had 100 of them).
 
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So one would have to move up to the GTX to upgrade from 30 year old Hubbells?
LOL, OK....fair enough.

I used to give 1 of the Hubbells (just like yours), away with each power cable I sold (prolly had 100 of them).

There are MANY very good receptacles that would be an upgrade to the Hubbell HBL-8200HR but for ME at a much higher cost just because the receptacles are 30 years old does not make them any worst if they where good back then i believe they are still good today of course that is just my opinion and you do have a right to yours.
 
Apologies for reviving an old thread. But I did a comparison of a number of outlets (not comprehensive I admit) that I thought some of you may have interest in.

In summary, I liked the Maestro the most amongst the unplated outlets, while the Oyaide R-1 was my preferred premium plated outlet. Amongst the Hubbells, my favourite was the 5362i.

I put up my impressions at my personal blog. Can't post the link yet (post count too low), but will when able to do so if it is OK with the mods.
 
Back in the day Mr Bob Crump seemed to be one of the "experts" on power delivery to an audio system. He highly recommended using Pass & Seymore 5242 (primarily), but also said the 5342 and 5362 outlets were good too. All were inexpensive and did in fact make a nice improvement over the usual generic Leviton's, but also beat out the Hubbels of their day.

What I thought was very strange initially, was his description of the first month of use after installation. He had a day-by-day listing of how the outlet changed the sound of his system, from flat, to tinny, to bass heavy, back to thin, and all over the place until they settled in at about 30 days of use. I thought he was batty, I mean what could possibly be breaking in here.

So I installed them and heard a similar roller coaster ride in terms of sound changes for quite a long time. They've been in my system ever since, because they do in fact work very well (after break in) and I have no desire to go through that dance again.
 
The Mapleshade outlets also look interesting. Pierre is a unique guy.
I'd be careful with Mapleshade. They have a "leading edge" audio design philosophy that some won't like, myself included after trying out their powerstrip. It's described very well in Srajan Ebaen's Enjoy The Music two-part review of their cables and accessories (google "ClearView Cables From inSound/Mapleshade"). OTOH, I use Mapleshade HDMI Plus cables on my LCD TV and they make a very big difference in picture quality over Monoprice and similar low-cost cables, but I never did a comparison with the better competition.
 
Okay...someone want to 'splain these outlets for me ? Are they built in power conditioners ? This is not like the cable thing is it ? LOL

I am NOT buying $200 wall outlets...:panic:

I use this/these and leave my dang outlets alone...
I know what you mean. However the whole thing of sound reproduction is build on electricity. And this should be clean and not hindered by any resistance. The receptacles are the things where the nice thick cables start (or end) and go to another format. If the contact is not perfect you are going to reduce the perfect highway that you have created with the great cables and bump into a toll gate. I am not sure in English but I think this is called something like transitional resistance or contact resistance. Rhodium is a good material for the plug or receptacle to ensure minimal resistance.

I appreciate the HMS Energia outlets / receptacles and conditioners.

hmsweiss_2.jpg

hmsweiss_3.jpg
 
I've got Furutech FT-SWS(R) a n I'm more than very satisfied
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