JOB 225 2-channel Power Amplifier ... update ...

Another question. I picked up so AudioQuest RCA cables today in preparation for the new amp. I think I might have to exchange them though. The ones I bought are in a single cable and then separate out to the two connectors a few inches from the end. I noticed in pictures that the RCA inputs are on opposite sides of the heat sink. If this is the case then this cable will not work. However I also saw a photo out there that is listed as updated and it shows the RCA inputs next to each other. Can anyone tell me for certain if the latest version has the inputs next to each other or are they still on opposite sides of the heat sink. This certainly will make a difference in that I will have to exchange these cables :(.
 
Randy

Mine are on either end of the heat sink and I don't think they have changed the design in the last two years. If you are looking for a neutral cable at a fair price look at the WW Oasis 7 or if you want to spend more the Equinoxe.
 
I wasn't aware of different Job 225 amp styles. Hmmmm. All photos that I've seen are separated wrt to RCA inputs.
 
I was just grabbing one at a local store :(... AudioQuest is their main line. I actually have a WW Oasis 7 XLR cable in the mail to connect the Teac to the Mc. It is replacing a basic XLR that I have there now. Sounds like I have to return the cable. Oh well, that is too bad....
 
Randy

If you are using Oasis 7 and like them I would stick with them for the connection to the Job. If you buy from Sound Approach in Va. you can use the discount coupon and they are shipped directly from Wireworld to you. Oasis is OFC and Equinoxe is OCC. I own multiples of both and honestly I can't hear a difference.
 
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It looks like all of the AudioQuest in the level I am looking have the single cable and separate at the end. Just a crying shame :)... I can get a decent deal on WW, I was just trying to support a local dealer :)....
 
Randy Myers said:
The Teac volume control is only for the headphones.... also the McIntosh has their best headphone amplifier section in it... so for now still want to try using it...

Not sure what the pre-amp rating to be looking for. This was in the owners manual: Preamplifier Output (for rated input) 3V (8V Maximun).
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Randy the preamp section of the mxa70 is 36.5db. That's the voltage gain
 
Thank you... now could you please tell me what exactly this means... :) It should work just fine with the amp, correct :dunno:
 
Mate said:
I know that "Whew!" ;) I felt like it when I discovered and read this whole thread, more than a year ago... and still haven't decided what to buy, 225 or INT, waiting for the full 6moons review. Welcome
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Well, after discovering the INT digitises the analog inputs, I have absolutely zero interest in it.
 
Randy Myers said:
Thank you... now could you please tell me what exactly this means... :) It should work just fine with the amp, correct :dunno:
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Hi Randy,

Just connect your Preamp outputs to the Job amp inputs. Turn the system on first, Job last. When shutting down, Job goes off first, then MXA70 last.

You'll be fine.

As for the cable, if you can GENTLY slide the block on the cable down a little, it might be a little short to hook up to both inputs. It a little like it might slide down the cable a bit and give you a little more slack.
 
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Hey Joe,

I understand the hookup of the pre-amp to the amp :).... I was just unsure of what the output value meant, if the McIntosh was of a correct amount according to some of the concerns that the others had expressed. So it sounds like the figures on the Mc are in an acceptable range!

Thank you for listing the order of turn on and shut down by the way. I usually do source first, Microsoft Surface, and then the Teac, and then the McIntosh, so now I will then insert the Job as the last on. Order of off will be the Job first, etc., etc. This is what made logic sense to me and so I am glad that you confirmed it!

I looked closely at the cable. It does not appear as if the divider can be slide back, certainly not enough to gain several inches which is probably what will be needed. I will contact the store and see if they have another alternative, otherwise I will have to return it :(. Too bad because it seems like it is a nice cable and it is the top that the store stocks.

I heard back from Goldmund/Job support this morning. The amp will be shipped either today or Monday! He also wanted me to make sure to send him my phone number. I had thought I put it on the order form, but I e-mailed it to him anyway, just to make sure!
 
I try for two years to understand what DC coupled means, but I still don't get it. Can anyone please explain in very simple terms? I lack technical knowledge and I may not understand all the terminology since English is not my native language.
 
Mate said:
I try for two years to understand what DC coupled means, but I still don't get it. Can anyone please explain in very simple terms? I lack technical knowledge and I may not understand all the terminology since English is not my native language.
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OK, picture this in your mind:

you have a rectangle that is 5 meters long and one meter tall and one meter wide. It is open only on the top. In the middle you put a thin rubber sheet that is one meter square and one centimeter thick, this sheet sides are glued to the rectangle so the rectangle is now two separate parts. Put water in one side, it does not go into the other, then fill water into the other side.

Now, this is what you want to know.

Imagine the water in each side is electricity. If you push down on the water on one side of the rectangle, then the wave will go to the rubber in the center and the rubber will move to now pass the wave on to the other side of the rectangle. This is AC coupling, there is electricity on both sides but there is a barrier between them (usually called a capacitor).

........( (........



Now, take that rubber piece out, and now at one end push on the water and the wave goes all the way to the other end and there is no barrier, both ends of the rectangle connected all the time, this is DC coupling, there is the same electricity on both sides, there is no barrier. This is just a wire connection in electricity.

....................

The idea of the capacitor is to stop a huge amount of water on one side from flowing to the other, this could be a problem if one side of the rectangle was made out of metal and had one meter walls and the other side made out of thin plastic with one foot walls, if someone put a large amount of water in the metal side all at once it might damage the plastic side when it flowed to it. However, if there is smaller water in the plastic side, and you add a rubber barrier in the middle, it will allow the wave to pass onto the other but not spill out of the sides and cause damage.
 
Ok Tomelex, thank you very much for your effort, I understood your story 100% in a sense that I pictured all that in my head correctly. But I understand 0% of what that means in a sense of "The JOB Amplifier is DC coupled with a new type of DC Servo Control avoiding any DC offset." -- http://jobsys.com/techniq.htm
Obviously it results with better bass / better controlled bass, but there was lots of writing when 225 was released about "DC coupling" and some potential problems to system because of it, if one connects unsuitable source / preamp, or something like that was the issue, I remember... but I never had any idea what's it all about.
 
A dc servo control is an electronic way of keeping "output signal wire" of the device at zero potential, that is, electrical neutral. outputs of say for example a pre-amp and inputs of say a power amp, would ideally be at zero potential (0 volts), a wire, and a dc servo adjusts the output usually of say the pre-amp to be at neutral (zero volts or ground potential) potential.

A simple example, you do not want any electricity to your speakers between songs, or with your amp turned on but with no input signal, and so, you can make and they do all the time a power amp that keeps its output at neutral, or zero volts, or ground potential whenever there is no music playing. The dc servo job is to keep the output at zero whenever there is no music coming out of the amplifier. It is just an electrical circuit known and used since atleast WW2.
 
Thanks Tomelex. So nothing special there? What was all the fuss about regarding a DC coupling, a few years back when 225 was released? If I buy 225, when choosing other devices later, preamp, head-amp, DAC, player, cable, whatever, is there anything that I should keep in mind to avoid, or I'll be fine with just anything (not talking about the sound synergy, but about - let's call it "technical compatibility")?
 
Received shipping notice from PayPal... the DHL tracking number does not show up in their system yet however :(.....
 
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