Surge protection

R

Ricky64

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2021
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200
Location
United States
Hi;
I seem to get some surges that affect my Grimm Mu1 and Mola Mola Tambaqui, frequently causing the Grimm to reset, and occasionally causing the MMT to freeze.
I have a Nordost Qbase which really doesn’t offer protection. What are other folks using as solutions?
Thanks


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The generic power strips referenced ("whole house surge protectors") above limit dynamic transient current delivery, don't provide any noise suppression, and, most importantly, will have a deleterious impact on sound quality. I know this from personal direct experience using a number of them.

Depending on your needs, I'd recommend either of these:

PS10:
Venom PS10 - Shunyata Research

If you want a higher level of noise reduction, and/or have more than 10 components, and want to be able to make a safe and proper connection to chassis ground for even more noise reduction (from your components' ground-plane), this:
Venom Series V16 - Shunyata Research
 
chops said:
I have looked at this exact unit several times now over the past couple years.

So I take it with this installed, you have zero stand-alone surge protection units in your system, correct? I wouldn't see the point with one of these EP2050EE filters installed at the electrical box.
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Before this was installed I was using two AudioQuest Niagara 1000. One has a Shunyata NR power cable that works with my digital/ethernet connections. The Shunyata NR cable definitely showed improvements in my tv's picture performance.

I have also added two Tesla powerwalls as a home power backup. And this whole house surge protection is a good addition with that as well.
 
Darrel said:
Before this was installed I was using two AudioQuest Niagara 1000. One has a Shunyata NR power cable that works with my digital/ethernet connections. The Shunyata NR cable diffidently showed improvements in my tv's picture performance.
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Yep, they also really improve video performance for HT. You can actually see the improvement in video quality on-screen.

Here's an informative video that Grammy-award winning record producer Glenn Tabor of GAT3 Studios produced in his mastering studio. Glenn, on his own, hired in a professional video production crew and paid for the production of this video at his own expense.

 
Puma Cat said:
The generic power strips referenced ("whole house surge protectors") above limit dynamic transient current delivery, don't provide any noise suppression, and, most importantly, will have a deleterious impact on sound quality.
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"whole house surge protectors"

a] are NOT generic power strips
b] do NOT limit dynamic transient current delivery
c] make no dubious claims about providing noise suppression
d] will NOT have a deleterious impact on sound quality.
 
Ricky64 wasn’t asking or inquiring about “whole house surge protectors”, but a power distributor for the components in his audio system.
 
Speedskater said:
"whole house surge protectors"

a] are NOT generic power strips
b] do NOT limit dynamic transient current delivery
c] make no dubious claims about providing noise suppression
d] will NOT have a deleterious impact on sound quality.
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Really? Well, then, show me the...data.

Oh, and BTW, what analysis method will you use for the presenting the data to demonstate the data set has statistical validity? A two-sample T-test or ANOVA? If it's two or more companisons being made, I recommend ANOVA, but your data will need to be continous rather than discrete data. Oh, and where will you set 𝜶 and 𝜷 ? Conventionally, these are set at 0.05 and 0.10.

With respect to the analysis, for the data set to be statistically valid, the data set analysis will have to provided with an R^2, R^2-Adjused, F-statistics and p-values for the model.

On, and by the way, before the gathering the data, your measurement system itself will need to be validated as statistically "fit-for-purpose" by a conducting a properly-designed MSA (Measurement System Analysis*) first. For the measurement system to be useable, the "sums of squares" of the "% Contribution" of the measurement system itself should ≤ 0.10.

Looking forward to seeing the MSA, the data and the statistically-valid analysis proving your point with statistical rigor.

Cheers! 😎

*–MSA: MSA | Measurement System Analysis | Quality-One
 
A few years ago Caelin use to recommend the Leviton 51120 for WHOLE HOUSE surge protection. Not sure if thats still the case

I have one on my main panel and a EP2050EE on my sub-panel which feeds my audio
 
Puma Cat said:
Ricky64 wasn’t asking or inquiring about “whole house surge protectors”, but a power distributor for the components in his audio system.
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Hi Puma Cat;
I guess I'm just looking for the best solution, all options open. Thanks for your responses, I'm interested in all.
Best,
Rick
 
Ricky64 said:
Hi Puma Cat;
I guess I'm just looking for the best solution, all options open. Thanks for your responses, I'm interested in all.
Best,
Rick
Click to expand...

No worries. For whole-house, I’d research the Leviton 51120 Kingsrule mentioned, then. Cheers.
 
Puma Cat said:
No worries. For whole-house, IÂ’d research the Leviton 51120 Kingsrule mentioned, then. Cheers.
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One thing, Nothing will stop a lightning strike to your home. Whole house, would depend on where you live. I'm in the lightning capt of the US and close to the beach. A whole house system is better than having your $8k + AC unit blown up, or those $$ washer or dryers, range , Fridge etc.. Its not all about audio . The thing one has to be careful on is the FINE PRINT in these protection systems, including those from your power company ( ex. if the surge or strike comes in via your cable provider, or via your sprinkler system or well, a lot of these electrical and power companies will not pay). But any whole house protection in a lightning area, is better than nothing at all. Flower Power and Light use, ( in our area) devices from Kenick Inc ( Clearwater Fl) . In our area a lot of the Electrical contractors offer Siemens and Leviton. Just read the really fine print on liability for whom ever treats your home..
 
CPP said:
One thing, Nothing will stop a lightning strike to your home. Whole house, would depend on where you live. I'm in the lightning capt of the US and close to the beach. A whole house system is better than having your $8k + AC unit blown up, or those $$ washer or dryers, range , Fridge etc.. Its not all about audio . The thing one has to be careful on is the FINE PRINT in these protection systems, including those from your power company ( ex. if the surge or strike comes in via your cable provider, or via your sprinkler system or well, a lot of these electrical and power companies will not pay). But any whole house protection in a lightning area, is better than nothing at all. Flower Power and Light use, ( in our area) devices from Kenick Inc ( Clearwater Fl) . In our area a lot of the Electrical contractors offer Siemens and Leviton. Just read the really fine print on liability for whom ever treats your home..
Click to expand...

I am in the lightning zone also, and this advice is spot on. Like any type of "security" it's best done in layers. We have first layer whole home protection on the service entrance at the meter, another layer taking up a double breaker spot at the breaker panel entrance. At the most critical endpoints for the last layer, I use standalone SurgeX series mode protection devices, with no noisy sacrificial MOV's and such. Nothing's gonna stop a direct hit, but this approach gives you a fighting chance when it's in the neighborhood. As mentioned above, covering ALL of the entry points (cable, sprinkler, telephone, etc) is absolutely necessary.

My biggest issue is the <1-2 second power drops we get here. Drives me nuts. Solar/batteries/transfer switch with ups type switchover (milliseconds) would deal with it, but the cost is very high.
 
TomS said:
I am in the lightning zone also, and this advice is spot on. Like any type of "security" it's best done in layers. We have first layer whole home protection on the service entrance at the meter, another layer taking up a double breaker spot at the breaker panel entrance. At the most critical endpoints for the last layer, I use standalone SurgeX series mode protection devices, with no noisy sacrificial MOV's and such. Nothing's gonna stop a direct hit, but this approach gives you a fighting chance when it's in the neighborhood. As mentioned above, covering ALL of the entry points (cable, sprinkler, telephone, etc) is absolutely necessary.

My biggest issue is the <1-2 second power drops we get here. Drives me nuts. Solar/batteries/transfer switch with ups type switchover (milliseconds) would deal with it, but the cost is very high.
Click to expand...


My daughter is in Cape Coral ( NW 2nd st) and they had their pool pump fried a few years ago, that's the only thing impacted of course all of theirs in buried power. It was found the pool company failed to bond their pump properly, so the pool company replaced their pump and the panel and re-added this device Intermatic PS3000 and ensured it was wired properly this time. IN Fla its a game we play everytime a lightning storm rolls through. You make it our ya don't LOL. You be safe down there, this year should be rather interesting as far as those windy things go. .
 
CPP said:
... this year should be rather interesting as far as those windy things go. .
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Yeah, Ian was a little too interesting. We lost our primary home (2 houses from the beach) and a rental condo next door. We just moved back in late November, and they're finally starting the condo rebuild next month. Never thought about it before, but that surge thing was very real.
 
My problem here in Florida was that the local utility would have issues causing frequent drop outs of service that would scramble my DAC/Server requiring an annoying reset sequence to restore operation. Rather than experimenting with surge / transient protection, I took the entire front end off line with a StromTank battery array. Now the utility can do their worst and my gear happily plays on. This is an expensive solution but not when you consider the potential damage that you avoid.

Cincy
 
I've seen power regenerator type products with battery back-up and have thought about one for my digital. It seems Aurender has a particular shut off sequence. I don't think any digital particularly likes a hard shut down from power loss.

Cincy2 said:
My problem here in Florida was that the local utility would have issues causing frequent drop outs of service that would scramble my DAC/Server requiring an annoying reset sequence to restore operation. Rather than experimenting with surge / transient protection, I took the entire front end off line with a StromTank battery array. Now the utility can do their worst and my gear happily plays on. This is an expensive solution but not when you consider the potential damage that you avoid.

Cincy
Click to expand...
 
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